Gearcase and torque converter housing
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Gearcase and torque converter housing
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Important
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It is very important to observe great cleanliness when working on the gearbox. Dirt particles can seriously damage the function and service life of the gearbox.
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1.
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Drain the oil from the gearbox before removing any parts. Remove the gearbox from the car. See Automatic gearbox assembly. Fit the dipstick pipe.
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2.
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Plug the shaft hole. Clean the exterior of the gearcase. Use plug 91 32 929, and seals 91 32 937 and 87 92 244. Plug the breather pipe.
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3.
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Undo the connectors and remove the wiring harness.
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4.
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Remove the dipstick pipe. Remove the selector lever bracket.
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5.
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Fit holder 87 92 392 to the gearbox with an M8x25 flange bolt. Position the gearbox on stand 78 74 878.
Note
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During removal it is important that the work area is well organised with groups of associated parts to facilitate fitting.
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6.
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If there is an engine mounting on the gearbox, remove it.
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7.
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Prise out the lock washer on the nut of the gear selector position sensor, and loosen the nut slightly.
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8.
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Remove the gear selector position sensor. (NOTE different cable lengths.)
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9.
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Unplug the connectors to the speed sensors and temperature sensor. Remove the speed sensors.
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10.
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Fit tool 87 92 681 or 87 91 766 to the torque converter. Remove holder 87 92 277 or 87 92 574. Remove the torque converter.
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11.
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Turn the gearbox 180° on the stand.
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12.
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Remove the cover plate and temperature sensor.
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13.
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Remove metal cover of the torque converter housing.
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14.
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Remove the bolts holding the valve housing cover and tap off the cover using a shatterproof plastic mallet.
Important
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Take care that the sealing surfaces are not damaged.
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15.
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Disconnect the electrical connectors of the solenoids. Lift the casing of the system pressure solenoid slightly with a small screwdriver to release the catch. Unhook the cable. Pull the cable and grommet out of the gearcase. Place the holder to one side.
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16.
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Remove the bolts of the valve housing (only bolts with 10 mm head). Keep the small cover safe.
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17.
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Unhook the piston rod of the manual valve from the valve control and remove the valve housing.
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18.
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Remove the two seals.
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19.
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Remove the bolts securing the oil pump to the gearcase.
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20.
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Pull the oil pump and brake unit B2 off from the gearcase using puller 87 92 699.
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21.
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Remove the brake hub and freewheel F1.
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22.
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Turn the gearbox 90° on the stand.
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23.
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Remove the torque converter housing. Knock the housing loose using a plastic mallet. Remove the small seal.
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24.
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Lift out the differential unit.
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25.
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Remove the oil strainer and cover panel.
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26.
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Remove the oil duct plate from the gearcase.
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27.
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Remove the twist spring and handbrake pawl pin.
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28.
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Remove the handbrake lever and the gear selector position plate. Detension the catch spring.
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29.
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Remove the pin seal from the selector lever pin.
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30.
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Remove the handbrake lever bracket and the catch spring.
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31.
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Remove the handbrake pawl and guide pin.
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32.
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Remove the bracket and twist spring.
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33.
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Remove the cover with O-ring, piston and spring.
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34.
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Lift out the output shaft complete with thrust bearings and bearing races.
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35.
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Lift out clutch C3 and the bearing race. Keep the thrust bearing safe.
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36.
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Lift the brake band of brake B4 out of the gearcase.
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37.
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Remove the circlip for freewheel F3 from the gearcase. Lift out F3. Keep the small retainer safe.
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38.
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Remove the oil sealing rings by pressing one side of the ring against the groove and removing the ring.
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39.
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Turn the gearbox 180°
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40.
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Remove the circlip, cover, piston, spring and the two O-rings of the B4 brake piston. NOTE, take care, the spring can cause the cover and piston to fly off.
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41.
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Remove the bolts holding the end cover. Tap off the cover using a plastic mallet. Remove the four seals.
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42.
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Remove the pipe of the C3 solenoid. Use sliding hammer 83 90 270 and hook 87 92 384.
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43.
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Remove the pipe bracket and remove the other pipe. Use sliding hammer 83 90 270 and hook 87 92 384.
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44.
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Remove the bearing and bearing race from the cover and the bearing race from the turbine shaft unit with clutch C1 and C2.
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45.
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Lift out the turbine shaft unit with clutch C1 and C2. Keep the thrust bearing and thrust bearing race safe.
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46.
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Lift out sun gear of the planetary gear set and the thrust bearing. Keep the thrust bearing race safe.
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47.
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Remove the rear ring gear. Keep the thrust bearing and bearing race safe.
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48.
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Lift out the planetary gear set and the large thrust bearing.
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49.
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Remove the circlip from freewheel F2 and brake B3 with a screwdriver. Lift out the ring gear with F2 and B3 which contains a plate assembly and flanges.
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50.
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Keep the thrust bearing and bearing race safe.
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51.
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Remove the circlip from the spring package using a screwdriver. Lift out the spring package.
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52.
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If necessary, remove the accumulator of C1 from the end cover with spring and piston.
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53.
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Remove the plug by the end cover
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54.
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Carefully apply compressed air at a pressure of 4 bar through the oil duct for B3 (as illustrated) to remove the B3 piston. If the piston does not come out, assist removal with needle-nose pliers.
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55.
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Turn the gearbox 90°.
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56.
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Remove the circlip of the idler. Use circlip pliers 87 90 180 with tips 87 90 297 and a small screwdriver. Remove the idler.
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57.
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Turn the gearbox 90°
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58.
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Remove the drive shaft seal using a hammer and screwdriver.
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59.
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Fit pullers 87 92 707 and 87 92 715. Remove the bearing race from the gearcase by heating the gear case with a heat gun for about 5 minutes. Pull out the bearing race and keep the shims safe.
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60.
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Remove the brake band holder and the remaining plugs from the gearcase. (Do not mix up the plugs.)
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61.
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Remove the bolt and pipe clip from the torque converter housing.
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62.
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Detach both ends of the pipe using sliding hammer 83 90 270 and hook 87 92 384. Remove the pipe. Be careful not to damage the pipe.
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63.
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Remove the oil duct plate, (three bolts). Remove the three magnets.
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64.
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Fit pullers 87 91 675 and 87 91 683. Heat the bearing seat for about 5 minutes with a heat gun and remove the roller bearing.
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65.
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Tap out the shaft seal.
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66.
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Remove the bearing race of the conical roller bearing in the torque converter housing by heating around the bearing seat with a heat gun for about 5 minutes. Pull out the bearing using pullers 87 92 707 and 87 92 715. Remove the washer (certain variants only). The bearing need only be removed if the torque converter housing or differential bearing is changed.
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Assembly of automatic gearbox
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1.
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If the torque converter housing is changed, transfer the outer plugs to the new housing. Carefully remove any old sealant from the sealing surfaces using a gasket scraper, and wash the torque converter housing.
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2.
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Heat the bearing seat with a heat gun and tap the roller bearing into the torque converter housing using drift 87 90 461 and handle 83 90 189. Press in the bearing with the text facing downwards until it reaches the bottom of the torque converter housing. The side of the roller bearing forms the bearing race of the output shaft's thrust bearing.
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3.
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Heat the bearing seat of the differential bearing race in the torque converter housing. Fit a washer on the variants that require this and fit the bearing race. Check that the bearing race is in contact with the bottom by trying to turn the washer. The washer should not turn.
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4.
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Place the three cleaned magnets on the oil reservoir plate. Apply threadlock 74 96 268 to the bolts and fit the oil duct plate.
Tightening torque 5.5 Nm (4 lbf ft)
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5.
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Fit the pipe using a plastic mallet. Be careful not to bend or damage the pipe. Fit the pipe clip.
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6.
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Heat the bearing seat of the differential bearing race in the gearcase for about 5 minutes. Refit the shims and fit the bearing race. Check that the bearing race is in contact with the bottom.
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7.
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Grease the bearings with transmission fluid. Fit the differential and fit the torque converter housing. Only fit every other bolt. Fit a dynamometer 87 92 483 and drift 87 91 337 to the differential housing. Turn until the reading is stable.
Tightening torque 24 Nm (18 lbf ft)
Measure the preload. Start value:
New bearing
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1.0 Nm (7 lbf ft)
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Refitted bearing
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0.5 Nm (3.5 lbf ft)
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8.
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If the preload deviates from the specified value, remove the differential and bearing race from the gearcase and change the shims. If the reading exceeds the value above, thinner shims should be used. If the reading is lower than the given value, thicker shims should be used. Shims are available in varying thicknesses from 1.0 - 1.90 mm
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9.
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Remove the torque converter housing and lift out the differential.
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10.
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Turn the gearbox 90°.
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11.
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Fit new O-rings to the B4 brake piston and the piston cover. Grease the servo piston with vaseline and fit the piston and cover. Fit the circlip.
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12.
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Turn the gearbox back 90°
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13.
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Bend out the rings and position them in the grooves. Do not stretch them more than necessary.
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14.
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Grease the two oil sealing rings of clutch C3 with vaseline.
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15.
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Grease new flawless O-rings with vaseline and fit them to the accumulator piston and the cover. Fit the spring and piston. Fit the cover and bracket with twist spring. Press down the bracket and tighten the bolts.
Tightening torque 10 Nm (7 lbf ft)
Important
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Do not press the accumulator cap further down than the holder allows. The O-ring can be damaged on sharp internal edges.
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16.
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Fit the freewheel F3 to the bottom of the gearcase and fit the retainer. (NOTE its location)
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17.
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Fit the circlip with a screwdriver. Make sure that the opening of the circlip is not aligned with any of the recesses in the groove.
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18.
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Grease the O-ring on the anchor bolt with vaseline and tighten it.
Tightening torque 140 Nm (104 lbf ft)
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19.
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Fit the brake band and the anchor bolt pin in the brake band recess.
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20.
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Fit the thrust bearing greased with vaseline. Fit the black section against the gearcase.
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21.
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Fit clutch C3 into the gearcase. Lift the brake band slightly to facilitate fitting. Make sure that the clutch runs freely anticlockwise and locks clockwise.
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22.
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Align the teeth of clutch C3 using a small screwdriver.
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23.
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Fit the bearing race to the sun gear and the thrust bearing to the planetary gear set. Fit the output shaft complete with clutch unit C3. Make sure that the shaft assumes the correct position in the hole for the large gear. Check that the shaft and gears rotate freely.
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24.
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Fit the thrust bearing race and thrust bearing to the output shaft unit.
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25.
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Position the pawl on the correct side of the spring.
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26.
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Fit the guide pin in the hole. Position the guide fork, pawl pin and spring.
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27.
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Fit the selector lever position spring of the ratchet. (NOTE different length bolts.)
Tightening torque 5.5 Nm (4 lbf ft)
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28.
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Press in a new oil seal greased with vaseline into the selector lever pin. Apply vaseline to the lips of the oil seal.
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29.
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Fit the lever and ratchet together (detension the spring). Make sure the handbrake pawl assumes its correct position and works. Move the selector lever to neutral.
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30.
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Fit the oil duct plate to the gearcase (short bolts). Tighten the bolts.
Tightening torque 5.5 Nm (4 lbf ft)
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31.
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Fit the cover with two bolts.
Tightening torque 5.5 Nm (4 lbf ft)
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32.
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Fit a new oil strainer and tighten the bolts. Make sure the seals are correctly positioned, one on each side.
Tightening torque 5.5 Nm (4 lbf ft)
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33.
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Fit the differential housing unit.
Important
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Check the differential housing internally for damage. Also check the drive shaft surfaces.
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34.
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Clean the sealing surfaces of the gearcase and torque converter housing. Use cleaner 30 02 599. Keep the surfaces free of grease and oil.
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35.
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Fit a new seal in the gearcase.
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36.
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Apply a 1 mm thick bead of flange sealant 87 81 841 to the gearcase as illustrated and fit the torque converter housing.
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37.
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Apply thread sealant 74 96 284 to the internal bolts. Fit the bolts (different lengths). Tighten the bolts.
Tightening torque 25 Nm (18 lbf ft)
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38.
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Clean the magnetic surface of the drain plug and fit it with a new washer.
Tightening torque 40 Nm (30 lbf ft)
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39.
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Fit the idler assembly into the gearcase.
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40.
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Turn the gearbox 90° in the vertical plane.
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41.
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Use circlip pliers 87 90 180 with tips 87 90 297 to fit the circlip. Press the circlip into the groove with the pliers.
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42.
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Turn the gearbox 90°.
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43.
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Grease two new O-rings for brake B3 with vaseline and fit them onto the brake piston. Take care not to damage the O-rings. Press the piston into the gearcase.
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44.
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Fit the return spring to the piston and fit the circlip into the groove on the gearcase. Make sure that the circlip opening is not aligned with the large recess. Use a screwdriver and check that the entire ring is seated in the groove.
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45.
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Fit the bearing race and the thrust bearing onto the idler hub.
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46.
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Fit the front ring gear and freewheel F3. Check that the thrust bearing is correctly positioned and that the ring gear rotates freely anticlockwise and locks clockwise.
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47.
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Fit the flanges and plate assembly as illustrated.
Important
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The large recess in the flanges and plates must be aligned in front of the brake bands to B4. Make sure that they are fitted in the correct order.
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48.
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Fit the circlip to the gearcase. Check that the circlip opening is not aligned with the recess.
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49.
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Connect a compressed air supply at a pressure of 4 bar to the oil duct as illustrated. Check that the piston moves freely.
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50.
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Grease the thrust bearing for the planetary gear set with vaseline and fit the bearing to the front ring gear. Check that the black side is facing upwards.
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51.
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Fit the planetary gear set.
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52.
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Fit the thrust bearing race, greased with vaseline, to the planetary gear set.
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53.
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Grease the thrust bearing of the planet ring gear with vaseline and fit the bearing to the front side of the planet ring gear. Place the planet ring gear on the planet gear set.
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54.
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Grease the bearing race of the planet ring gear with vaseline. Fit the bearing race.
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55.
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Grease the thrust bearing with vaseline and fit it to the sun gear shaft.
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56.
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Fit the sun gear unit to the planetary gear set.
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57.
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Grease the thrust bearing of the sun gear with vaseline and place the bearing on the sun gear. Make sure that the bearing is fitted with the black side facing upwards.
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58.
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Centre the discs and plates with a screwdriver. Fit the ring gear and clutch C1 as a unit. Turn the idler and C1 towards each other so that the planetary gear set meshes with the ring gear.
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59.
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Check that the ring gear and clutch C1 have fallen into place by measuring as illustrated. The distance should be 51 mm.
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60.
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Fit the oil pipe. Use a shatterproof plastic mallet. Be careful not to bend or damage the pipe.
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61.
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Place a clip on the pipe and tighten the screw.
Tightening torque 5.5 Nm (4 lbf ft)
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62.
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Fit the oil pipe of clutch C3 as illustrated. Use a shatterproof plastic mallet. Be careful not to bend or damage the pipe.
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63.
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Fit the bearing race into position on the rear cover. Grease the bearing race with vaseline. Fit the bearing race and thrust bearing to the C1/C2 unit.
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64.
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Fit the C1 accumulator to the end cover.
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65.
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If the end cover is changed, fit oil sealing rings to the needle bearing housing. Do not stretch the rings more than necessary.
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66.
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Fit a new O-ring greased with vaseline to the shaft of C1/C2
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67.
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Clean the sealing surfaces with cleaner 30 02 599. Keep the surfaces free of grease and oil.
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68.
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Apply a 1 mm thick bead of flange sealant 87 81 841 to the rear cover.
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69.
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Grease four new sealing rings for the oil holes with vaseline and fit them to the gearcase.
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70.
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Fit the end cover to the gearcase. Apply thread sealant 74 96 284 to the bolts and tighten them in sequence (different lengths).
Tightening torque M6 10 Nm (7 lbf ft)
Tightening torque M8 25 Nm (18 lbf ft)
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71.
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Turn the gearbox so that the turbine shaft points 45° downwards.
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72.
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Apply vaseline to the O-ring of the oil pump unit. Align the plate package using a small screwdriver. Fit thrust washers greased with vaseline to brake B1/B2.
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73.
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Fit freewheel F1 and the bearing race of brakes B1 and B2 to the oil pump unit. Grease the bearing race of F1 with vaseline and fit it.
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74.
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Place the oil pump unit so that the bolt holes are aligned with those of the gearcase. Carefully press the pump unit into place. Carefully tighten the bolts alternately.
Tightening torque 25 Nm (19 lbf ft)
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75.
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Turn the gearbox back 45°
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76.
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Check that the axial play of the turbine shaft is 0.37 - 0.9 mm. Use gauge 78 40 622 and stand 87 90 727.
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77.
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Fit the two sealing rings.
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78.
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Connect the piston rod of the manual valve with the manual valve control on the valve housing unit. Thread the bolts. Make sure the gasket does not get folded.
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79.
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Fit the gasket to the cover. Fit the bolts of the cover. Tighten all the valve housing bolts in sequence.
Tightening torque 10 Nm (7 lbf ft)
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80.
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Grease a new O-ring with vaseline and fit it, as well as the grommet and wiring harness for the solenoids, to the gearcase.
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81.
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Connect the connectors to the four solenoids and secure the wiring.
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82.
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Clean the inside of the gearcase cover. Remove any gasket remains from the contact surfaces of the cover and gearcase. Clean the sealing surfaces with cleaner 30 02 599. Apply a 1 mm thick bead of sealant 87 81 841 to the cover and fit the cover to the gearcase. Apply thread sealant 74 76 284 to the bolts (different lengths) and tighten them in sequence.
Tightening torque 25 Nm (19 lbf ft)
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83.
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Fit the fluid temperature sensor to the gearcase. Fit a new O-ring greased with vaseline.
Tightening torque 10 Nm (7 lbf ft)
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84.
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Fit the protective plate of the fluid temperature sensor with a nut, washer and bolt.
Tightening torque, bolt 25 Nm (19 lbf ft)
Tightening torque, nut 10 Nm (7 lbf ft)
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85.
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Clean the sealing surface of the plate cover and apply a 2 mm thick bead of sealant, part no. 87 81 841. Fit and tighten the bolts.
Tightening torque 7.5 Nm (6 lbf ft)
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86.
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Turn the gearbox 180°
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87.
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Fit new O-rings to the speed sensors. Clean the speed sensors and make sure that there are no metal filings on the magnets. Grease the O-rings with vaseline. Fit the two speed sensors in their respective positions. Note that for models in which the wiring is connected directly to the sensors, the wires are of different lengths. Long cable = input shaft (A), short cable = output shaft (B). Plug in the speed sensor and temperature sensor connectors. Tighten the bolts.
Tightening torque 5.5 Nm (4 lbf ft)
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88.
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Fit the gear selector position sensor. Fit the holder for the grommet. Tighten the gear selector position sensor bolts first (important). Then tighten the nut on the gear selector position sensor and bend up the lock plate.
Tightening torque 8 Nm (6 lbf ft)
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89.
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Engage neutral and fit adjustment tool 87 92 467. Undo the gear selector position sensor bolts and adjust the sensor so that the mark is visible in the centre of the groove on the adjustment tool. Tighten the bolts.
Tightening torque 25 Nm (18 lbf ft)
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90.
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Remove the adjustment tool.
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91.
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Turn the gearbox 90°.
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92.
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Change the torque converter seal. See adjustment/replacement Torque converter seal.
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93.
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Fit the torque converter. Use holder 87 92 681 or 87 91 766. Fit assembly retainer 87 92 277 or 87 92 574.
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94.
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Check that the torque converter is correctly positioned by placing a steel ruler on the mating face of the torque converter. Measure the distance between the mating face and the contact surface of the drive plate on the torque converter. The distance should be: 4-cyl. min. 9 mm; 6-cyl. min. 15 mm.
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95.
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Remove holder 87 92 681.
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96.
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Fit new drive shaft seals. Use drift 83 90 122
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97.
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Tie together the wiring harness with cable ties.
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98.
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Prise the type plate off the replaced gearbox with a screwdriver.
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99.
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Flatten the plate with a hammer. Enlarge the hole with a conical drift using a M10 nut as a support. Place the plate on the new gearcase and press it in place. Use an M8 nut over the centre pin as a support and seal with a hammer.
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100.
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Refit the engine mounting and lift the gearbox off the stand.
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101.
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Remove holder 87 92 392 from the gearbox.
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102.
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Fit the selector wire mounting.
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103.
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Fit the gearbox to the car. See Automatic gearbox assembly. Don't forget to clean the oil cooler with flushing equipment 87 91 824.
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